When I started planning to climb Mount Logan, I
realized that I had to have climbing gear and clothing
which would be up to the challenge. Our team, over
the 30 days of the climb, will face temperatures
ranging from -25 °C to 25 °C and must be
prepared for wind, snow, heat and cold. It is very
important to research gear, clothing and foods from
different companies, and then select those which
you are willing to base your trip’s success
on, as well as your life and personal safety. In
my planning, I looked for the lightest and most
high tech gear knowing I had to keep the total of
my personal gear to less than 30 kg. Here is my
list for our trip and some of my choices:
PERSONAL
GEAR
· AT Boots – Scarpa Matrix
· Liners – Intuition
· AT Skis – G3 Barons with Silveretta
500 bindings and climbing skins
· Ski poles: adjustable and lightweight
– Black Diamond Expedition Poles
· Glacier sunglasses with side shields.
Julbo Nomad
· Ski goggles: double lens only
· Thermarest pad: full length and the thickest
possible
· Ensolite pad
· Expedition sleeping bag: A -40°F
Gore-Tex (Dryloft) Mountain Hardwear Ghost
· Internal frame backpack - 9,500 cubic
inch capacity with side pockets and straps for
securing pads and group gear.
· Nylon duffel bag: for containing all
gear carried on my sled. The largest, lightest
one I can find.
· Ice axe: 70 cm. with leash
· Crampons
· Carabiners: 7 total, including two large
locking pear-shaped biners.
· Avalanche beacon: Ortovox F1 is the best
on the market right now.
· Avalanche probe
· 1 mechanical ascender: rigged with harness
attachment.
· Adjustable seat harness
· Sun cream: SPF 25 or greater
· Lip balm: two of high SPF rating
· Water bottles: 2 widemouth polybottles
with insulated covers.
· One pee bottle: marked. Any old bottle
will do.
· Large plastic bowl, large insulated cup,
2 Lexan plastic soup spoons
· Swiss Army knife, 2 Bic lighters
· 20 feet of 1 inch nylon webbing: used
for pulling sleds.
· 7 mm. perlon cord: you will need two
or more small prussik loops (20 feet total).
· Bungie cords: for sled, 6 long to medium.
· Personal First Aid Kit
· 2 rolls t.p. in Ziplock bags.
· Toothbrush and small tube of paste.
· Small package of baby wipes: keep personal
grooming aids to a minimum.
· Digital Camera – Pentax K100D
· Digital Camera – Pentax Optio W30
· Disposable hand warmers: 2 to 4 just
in case.
· Personal snack food: group lunches will
be simple and basic. Bring snack food for the
trail and in the tent. I recommend dry salami,
beef jerky, special cheeses, candy bars, GORP,
nuts, energy bars and drink mix. Don't bring too
much of any single item like Power Bars. They
freeze up high and taste like chalk. Bring at
least 10 lbs.
· Personal entertainment: One thick paperback,
a flask of brandy, a small journal, perhaps a
Walkman and a few tapes: whatever you will enjoy
whiling away the long evening hours with and the
occasional storm days.
· Ear plugs, eye cover
· Headlamp
PERSONAL
CLOTHING
· Longjohn bottoms and tops: one pair lightweight
and one pair expedition weight.
· Fleece pants: heavyweight with full length
side zippers.
· Light stretch fleece top: such as 100
weight Polartec.
· Heavyweight fleece jacket
· Waterproof/breathable jacket with attached
hood
· Waterproof/breathable pants or bibs:
must have full length side zips.
· Expedition weight down parka: Mountain
Hardwear Absolute Parka
· Wool or fleece ski hat
· Balaclava face mask or neck gaiter
· Fleece gloves
· Insulated ski gloves or Gore-Tex climbing
gloves (I prefer the Outdoor Research Professional
Modular Glove with the GT liner for the warmest
possible glove.)
· Expedition overmitts with heavy mitt
liners – Outdoor Research Alti Mitts
· Gaiters: for low on the mountain when
overboots are not necessary.
· Sun hat or baseball cap
· Bandanna
· Synthetic booties
GROUP GEAR
· Shovels
· Saws
· Sleds
· Sleeping tent
· Group Kitchen Tent
· Walkie Talkies
· Rope
· Oximetre